Eat Good Food

This is a blog about food, good food. My mission in life is to educate good people about bad food.

Wednesday, August 10, 2005

Tomatoes!

Tomatoes: the essence of summer. I remember as a child my mother picking tomatoes warm from the sun and making the juciest, most flavorful BLTs on the planet. I picked up the same habit, but have forgone the traditional B (bacon), replacing it instead with my own B – basil. And although I don’t have a garden, I do have access to a thriving farmers’ market every Sunday morning where we are now finding some of the best produce in the state. Look for organic, heirloom tomatoes: while they may not look pretty, they will be intensely flavorful.

When we lived in Baltimore, every September just before the end of tomato season we’d go to our local farmers’ market and buy at least two bushels of tomatoes. Farmers’ loved us because we loved buying the tomatoes that were slightly bruised – perfect for making our winter sauce.

My hands-down favorite tomato sauce recipe came from a cookbook by Marcella Hazan, one of the best hands at Italian cuisine. It’s one of those recipes where you can’t believe how something so simple tastes so incredibly good.

But like most dishes, it’s all about the quality of your main ingredient. The better the tomato, the better the sauce. I would not recommend using the heirloom tomatoes to make this sauce – no save those for eating straight up or paired with fresh mozzarella and fresh picked basil. Instead search out the farmers’ market for “sauce tomatoes” or Roma or plum tomatoes. These tomatoes have less water content and make a thicker sauce.

If you are as lucky as we were and can buy a large amount, make as much sauce as you possibly can. It freezes beautifully and will be a wonderful reminder of summer during those chilly winter nights. One year we made nearly 50 quarts of sauce, which we froze and gave out as holiday gifts along with a pound of gourmet pasta to friends and neighbors. The gift, we were repeatedly told, was appreciated much more than the obligatory plate of cookies and fudge.

Whatever your preference – fresh heirloom tomatoes or sauce tomatoes – just be sure to enjoy summer’s abundance at its peak! And don’t forget that tomatoes are high in lycopene, which may support prostate health for men and offer a boost to the immune system for everyone.

Classic Pomodoro Sauce

2 lbs. fresh ripe plum or Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped*

6 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion, peeled and cut in half

Sea salt

Parmesan cheese

1. Put all the ingredients (except Parmesan cheese) in a saucepan and simmer for 20-30 minutes. The tomatoes need to reduce and separate from the butter.

2. Remove from heat and discard the onion. (The onion’s role here is to impart a subtle sweetness to the sauce.)

3. Pour noodles into the sauce and stir until noodles are completely coated with sauce. Serve immediately. Sprinkle freshly grated Parmesan.

* Although you can buy hydroponic and hot-house tomatoes year-round, I almost never do because the quality just can’t compare to in-season tomatoes. Instead a 28 oz. can of the best canned tomatoes you can buy. I highly recommend San Marzano tomatoes. Buy whole tomatoes and use the juice in the can. Puree in blender before adding to saucepan with the butter and onion.

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